Holy Cow

Algu, having dinner in complete darkness

A sleepy village, tucked between a national highway and the Ganges in central Bihar. It is only 7.00pm. I am having dinner under a battery operated lamp. I have just returned from a home tour related to my research. This village was electrified in the 1960s but people still walk around with torches in hand. Those who can afford, eat dinner under battery operated lamps. There is darkness all around. Electricity is like a guest here. It makes short visits. 

Since, it is early, my host offers to take me for another home tour after dinner, an offer I gladly accept. Armed with our torches, we walk through the dark lanes, past the well and past the temple. Finally we reach jaadab toli (Yadav Toli), a neighbourhood inhabited by Yadavs (As par the caste system, Yadavs have traditionally been involved in taking care of cattle and the business of milk). 

My host calls for the person we are looking for. A reply comes from the dark. My host directs his torch towards the sound. The man, Algu Yadav is sitting on a chauki (wooden bed used for sleeping and sitting) with a plate full of rice and lentil. The heap of rice is topped with about 10 red chillies (wonder how he manages his mornings). The usual accessories give him company, a torch and a stick. In the dark dogs and cats are regular scares to the food. The stick needs to be kept by the side in case a dog is tempted. The torch will be used when Algu will need to move about. I find this condition strange and worrying but Algu seems to be at peace with his condition.

As we sit down to talk and I open my bag to take out my notebook, we hear some shouting. Its an old woman, running around and crying for help. My first impression is that someone had been bitten by a snake, something that people claim happens often. Then we hear it.

"Help! Please! someone help! The cow has fallen into the well. Help please! They had just brought the cow. Help! Run! Come!"

The cries resonate in the dark, silent night. And the woman disappears into the alley she appeared from.

Soon, I see some people briskly walking, others running towards where the woman had appeared from.  This is not to be missed. I must see whats going on and if needed lend a hand. Everyone is going in the same direction. I join them.

An amazing scene awaits me. There is no electricity and its a dark night. I see 50-100 people gathered at one spot, their backs towards me. Everyone has a torch in the hand. All the torches are pointed into a well. The centre of the crowd is illuminated. It seems like a group of holy men is surrounding the newly born god.  

Men constantly join and leave the circle around the well. They have metal or plastic hilts in their hands with lights coming out of the hilts. In the surrounding darkness they look like lightsabers from starwars. These jedi of the village keep joining and leaving the war to save the cow, cutting the darkness with their torches.

On a side, by the road, a group of women stand watching, worried, egre to discover the climax of the story. Such events attract as many or more viewers as fighters. In a way they provide a change from the boring, mundane village life. People who otherwise may not move around in the darkness of night, gather to watch and participate in such events.

On one side, a four wheeler is parked, possibly the one the cow was brought on. Someone suggests   that the headlamps of the vehicle would make work easier. Quickly, the vehicle is turned and the light pointed towards the well. It illuminates the general area but can't get into the well. In any case the men are surrounding the well. However, the headlamps make work easier in the general area. Work inside the well is still helped with the lightsabers.

Some men have jumped into the well and tied the cow with a rope. A plank is placed on top of the well. A make shift pulley is quickly created. Everyone heaves and the cow is pulled out.

The cow seems to be in sock with all the crowd around it and the recent experience it has had. Its owners rub it and light a fire near by to pacify and warm it. They are engulfed in a circle of light, from someone's torch.

In the end the lightsabers have won, over the darkness. People armed only with their torches and muscles, without any external help have managed to rescue a cow and the family that depends on it. Lack of electricity has not been an impediment to these people. They know very well how to work without electricity. We had studied about adaptation, I see it in these people.

We are heading back, our torches now directed away from the spot of action. Everyone is heading back. Darkness again engulfs the spot. I hope the cow will be ok this time...